Woke at about 07:30 – then convinced myself to sleep longer. Woke again at about 08:30, and Christine was stirring. After a lovely breakfast of egg, toast, fruit we headed out to hit the museums armed with our ‘Salzburg Card’. For EURO23 for a whole day, and free entry into almost everything, free public transport. Entirely worth it when I worked out that we would have had to pay almost EURO50 in entrance fees alone!
Started with the Residenz State Rooms. Amazing spaces, stunning rooms, all original and beautifully maintained. Huge tapestries, wonderful clocks and a real impression that these rooms were used. You could almost look back in time and see the women in their massive skirts and the men in their frock coats and powdered wigs. Amazing. And in the Great Hall both Christine and I wanted to dig up the original marble floor and lay it in our kitchens! Trodden smooth by thousands upon thousands of feet, it had a high sheen and chips/stains that made it very beautiful. And the original spindles holding up the marble bannister were made from bell brass (as a joke) and set up so they could be played as a glockenspiel, with every one hitting a different note! Fantastic! A sense of humour in such an imposing place…
Moved on to Mozart’s Birthplace. This was disappointing, as it’s been re-done by some American artist who’s taken almost all the original features of the rooms away and created ‘spaces’ instead. Now, I’m all for artistic interpretation, but surely Mozart has enough of his own? Why do this?? It was interesting to see Mozart’s actual posessions (his silk money wallet, his jewellery, his violins) and the original period souvenirs (tickets to Mozart’s performances, original operatic set and costume designs, letters of employment etc) – but on the whole this was a disappointing museum. *sigh* Why couldn’t they just leave it be or, better yet, restore it to it’s original condition?
From there, with a slightly bad taste in the mouth, we went up the lift to the cliff top to see the Museum of Modern Art. Contained some wonderful photos and some slightly dodgy wood-carving. And a magnificent bronze about 4 meters long of a crashed Icarus, complete with ropes and feathers… I liked that one.
Headed back down and had lunch in a local pub. Ordered the house platter for two, containing weiner schnizel, bratwurst, peppered pork, sauerkraut, salad and fries. When it arrived it was so big that a Somali family could live off it for a month! Massive meal, which we came nowhere near to finishing.
Absolutely stuffed with food, we headed to the funicular (railway up a cliff) that would take us up to the Fortress. But on the way went into the cathedral to look inside. Very intricate carving, 5 (!!) pipe organs, and some nice art. Sorry, but I can’t get emotional about these places – especially considering how lavish they all are and that when they were built the majority of the populace was starving. Anyway, on to the Fortress. Stunning views from the top we headed in and wandered around all the ‘free’ bits. Our Salzburg card could have got us free entry, but there was one particular set of rooms that you could only do on a guided tour, which we didn’t fancy at all. We did go into all the rooms we could, and met up again with the Aussie couple from dinner! Wandered the state rooms, all in wood with huge marble columns, and guild work. A lot of the Fortress was taken up with a war museum, and it was very strange to see a German/Austrian war museum. We walked through quickly with mixed feelings. I guess they’ve got as much right to a memorial as anyone else, but there’s a sense of uncomfortableness looking at it all.
On the way out we stopped in the Marionette Museum, where there were marionettes from The Marionette Theatre’s opera productions! Wonderful miniature costumes! So much work gone into something so small!
Sat at the cafe on the Fortress walls for a bit – absorbing. Deciding what to do with the remaining 2 hours of our time in Salzburg. We ended up heading to the Wax Museum to see if we could find any costumes (my idea – I’ve got a big fondness for 17th-18th centrury clothing). Didn’t have much, but did have a fabulous ‘Papageno’ costume! And then we realised that it was EURO12 to enter! We’d paid nothing, and it wasn’t even worth that!
Headed to the airport and spent our last EUROs on tea and cheesecake and duty free chocolate for my housemate. :) Uneventful flight home, again in a row on our own, and met by Christine’s son for delivery home. Arrived home about 11pm and went straight to bed.
All in all, a fantastic trip to a particularly beautiful city. I love Salzburg for it’s beauty, history and people, and I know I’ll be back.